Reviving Dying Arts in Jewellery

India, once known as ‘The Golden Bird’, has arelationship with jewellery that seemsas old as time itself. India’s rich heritage ofjewellery craftsmanship was carefully nurtured in the fertile soil of tradition and regal patronage, blossoming into diverse forms of art that captivated connoisseurs across the world. With the world becoming increasingly connected, technology lifestyles and global trends have influencedtastes resulting in amajor evolutionin consumer preferences.

With Zoya, we are creating an exclusive, personalised world that features limited edition pieces of jewellery inspired by the myriad journeys of the Zoya woman – both internal and external. The genesis of a Zoya creation can be traced back to an idea that finds form in the hands of its skilled craftsmen, the torchbearers of a forgotten heritage. Giving contemporary form to traditional craft, these are designed with the modern sophisticate in mind, a woman who is both discerning and aesthetically astute.The vision of the designer meets the virtuosity of the artisan, elevating every piece into a wearable work of art. 

Here are a few examples of how traditional craft is delivered in a contemporary aesthetic at Zoya: 

Gulabi Minakari: From the artisans of Banaras came an enamel, that brought life to the beauty, colours and textures of the lotuses lining its thronging banks.We know of only one family today, that practices the art of Gulabi Minakari.  Zoya revives this forgotten craft, that traditionally involved painting the vibrant spectrum of pink on an intricately patterned white background by reinventing it with touches of green. This previously unattempted fusing of diverse enamelling techniques was fashioned in a selection of earrings, neckpieces and bracelets in Zoya’s Banaras collection. Delivering a distinctly feminine aesthetic, these pieces have been applauded at presentations on the most iconic global fashion runway— Paris Fashion Week.  

Partaj: Partaj is used as a technique of decoration that engraves the gold surface with fine designs. Using the sharp stylus, the craftsmen pushes the gold resulting in a deeply engraved texture. The resulting effect is akin to intricate gold embroidery. Zoya’s skilled karigars have used Partaj in a few pieceslike the Lotus hasli necklace from the Banaras collection and the Pacheli bangle from the Krsna collection. 

Nakashi: Nakashi is a classic technique of jewellery manufacturing where the craftsman harnesses the extreme malleability and elasticity of gold to create complex designs that use only a small quantity of the metal. The designs drawn on a thin sheet of beaten gold is pushed up as the background is depressed using soft-headed tools and gentle punches. Nakashi has been used skilfully to create the pendant in the Lotus Hasli necklace from the Banaras collection. 

Pachchi: Pachchi is a technique that involves layering of polkis which has been used in Zoya’s Awadh collection.However, using this technique in jewellery requires a lot of detailing and intricacy with the setting of each piece which is painstakingly done by hands. 

As a brand from the House of Tata, we are committed to encouraging a new generation of artisans.    - Revathi Kant, Chief Design Officer, Titan Company Limited